It’s back to the classics for Tibi’s latest collection. “Resort is one of those seasons where we lean into all of the things that we really really love,” said Amy Smilovic at her lower Manhattan showroom. “We wanted to tap into a really strong sense of color; there’s something really fresh about having a solid group of neutrals with some stronger, brighter colors that aren’t preppy or even overly sporty, but are optimistic.” On the racks, an ocean of multiple shades of brown—or “ring 2” on the brand’s color wheel—with only Kelly green and red at the ready to liven things up. “It’s our go-to. And then everything else is built from there,” Smilovic added. It was in textures instead where the designer and her team indulged: acid-wash denim, leather, double-faced cashmere, quilted satins, alpaca wool, metallic mesh, and a classic black-on-white polka-dot alive with the motion of a paintbrush mark.
There was a general sportswear influence throughout: a sleek long-sleeve dress with a racer-back cutout, fully-functional tear-away pants, V-neck sweaters worn over sporty zippered dickies, and a ski-inspired jumpsuit which Smilovic declared she’d like to wear “by itself with a little tank underneath,” but the highlight was certainly the re-imagined tailoring done up in Italian sporty nylon—like a jacket with a cinched waist and a built-in layered zip-up hoodie in a lighter nylon material. Elsewhere, light-as-air crinkly silver pieces were reminiscent of the space blankets used by runners post-race. “It’s not a palate cleanse, but it’s just establishing the foundation for some of the things that you’ll see coming down the pike for a spring and fall.” On your marks….