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Bite Studios Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Bite Studios Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 October 15, 2025
written by jummy84

Summer—rather than sex—in the city is what Bite Studios cofounders Veronika Kant and William Lundgren had in mind when designing for spring. There was less tailoring than might be expected for a collection aimed at the working woman, yet a white suit in an organic silk/wool blend fabric, that was a year in development, was spot on. (Note the curved seam of the pants.) 

The unexpected sheerness of a plaid fabric and the doubling of material on the torso of a shirred-front daffodil yellow dress were examples of how transparency was used to achieve a sense of lightness. The addition of pleats at the top front and back of sleeves created a feeling of forward motion, which, on a terrific black satin trench, was emphasized by extra volume at the back, in a sort of gently tethered superhero’s cape.

October 15, 2025 0 comments
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A.W.A.K.E. Mode Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

A.W.A.K.E. Mode Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 October 15, 2025
written by jummy84

Natalia Alaverdian loves tweaking an archetype. So, what might a modern-day Marie-Antoinette wear if she could “move between a picnic and a business meeting to swimming with sea creatures and partying with rock bands somewhere circa the end of the ’60s”?

Well, in A.W.A.K.E-land that meant “twisted girly” plays on sculpture: pastoral crinolines, hips structured as if to reinstate curves lost to semaglutides, new takes on her popular tendril skirts and even figurative swan heels or pompom gladiators—and that’s just for starters.

“I was obsessed with finding something silly and fun,” the designer said via video from her London studio. She explained the swan heels and the flappy “fin” shoes—which are fitted with a crepe-sized leather disc—by saying, “I felt like injecting levity, like a toy.”

Ruffles abounded, cascading down trousers, trenches, fitted column dresses and even little French marinières. Clearly, Alaverdian was having a ball pushing proportions to the max, revisiting collegiate stripes in fat, A-line tops and blowing up back-to-front denims with billowy flares. A lashing of Alpine kitsch came in red-and-white gingham or cow-print shoes. Part Heidi, part punk, and all in good fun. Even so, spliced amid the playfulness were some very simple, pretty tops, for example in white eyelet, and off-the-shoulder khaki cape and a rippled black halter blouse. A crinkled white skirt, a white evening dress with a simple ruffle in back and portrait jackets looked sophisticated yet not self-serious. On that note, AWAKE is known for saucy little tees, too and this time around one surfaced with strategically placed half-globes, a reference to body art, the designer said, but open enough to interpretation.

At a time where anything goes, there was something for everyone and plenty to choose from in this collection. With so much going on, it can be tricky to glean a clear message. At 77 looks, this lineup could have done with a stiff edit. But just maybe on the other hand that’s Alaverdian’s whole point: you can have your cake and eat it too.

October 15, 2025 0 comments
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What the Buyers Are Buying From the Spring 2026 Runways
Fashion

What the Buyers Are Buying From the Spring 2026 Runways

by jummy84 October 15, 2025
written by jummy84


The reviews are already in from the Spring 2026 collections shown across New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks. And where critics might have focused on topics like ingenuity, showmanship and whether or not designers respect women; buyers have one primary concern: What will sell next …

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October 15, 2025 0 comments
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Yirantian Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection
Fashion

Yirantian Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection

by jummy84 October 15, 2025
written by jummy84

Not unlike elsewhere in fashion, many of Shanghai’s buzziest labels are helmed by men. They often go viral online for their theatrics and are widely known for their carefully architected runway narratives. They’re robust businesses that have helped put Shanghai Fashion Week on the map, but it’s fair to say that they’re mostly built on projections of what women should wear and who they should be. Not Yirantian. Yirantian Guo’s eponymous label is a thoughtful examination of what women like her want to wear based on who they already are—this as reported by the many buyers, editors, and other fashion types who often wear her clothes.

Guo is one of Shanghai’s leading women designers, a nuance that is crucial to her endeavor because of how clearly it comes across in her clothes. She doesn’t make anything constricting, uncomfortable, or gratuitously revealing. Her designs don’t sacrifice the wearer for the sake of the look, which cannot be said about some of the most talked-about collections in Paris. Guo makes clothes that look like they feel good.

Last season she broke new ground with a more concise, sophisticated outing, which she built upon for spring. She said that the idea here was to explore a “dialogue between sharpness and softness,” name-checking a handful of dichotomies: “rationality and emotion,” “unassuming yet resonant.” Moving away from concept to execution, the key idea of the season was to contrast neutral suitings with powdery pastels. She faced her tailored separates cut in gray and black wools and satins with these lighter colors, a detail only noticeable by the way a tiny little bell hung and separated a split collar. The same juxtaposition carried over as silk slips poked out of pencil skirts and lined lace panels. Knits were airy and light and each model wore cropped satin gloves. This was a collection full of little delights.

The second half of the show got livelier and sexier and Guo showed she can cut a mean suit and drape a fabulously wispy dress. Most fun, however, were a couple of carwash silk skirts shown under roomy windbreakers that cinched and flared at the waist and some tops woven from strips of colorful silks that came undone at the side. Guo makes some pretty wearable, comfortable clothes—and they’re getting better by the season—but the trick she pulled here is showing that she knows how to have fun, too.

October 15, 2025 0 comments
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Hope For Flowers Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Hope For Flowers Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 October 15, 2025
written by jummy84

Tracy Reese’s Hope For Flowers brand is five years into production, and when she presented the spring 2026 collection in New York at the Designers & Agents trade show, several buyers made a point to tell her, “this is your best collection ever,” Reese said over Zoom from her office in Detroit. Reese called the range “a quintessential Hope For Flowers collection; it’s very feminine [and] very colorful.” But whereas past outings leaned heavily on signature pieces and expected prints—smocked shirting, block print florals—this one introduced a wider range of fabrics, and a color story that ranged from subdued to dramatic.

Reese sourced an EcoVero georgette for a frilled maxi dress, a shell top, and a midi dress with a draped neckline. “Sheerness has eluded me until we found this fabric because there just aren’t a lot of sustainable sheer fabrics,” she said. The pieces, along with strapless A-line and ruched mini dresses, were in a diffused watercolor print—a pretty mix of pinks, peaches, blues, and a brownish-orange color Reese likened to marmalade. A few of the designer’s favorite silhouettes got an update: harem pants were structured and tailored; shirting fell off the shoulder; and a new iteration of the Hope For Flowers pom-pom pant came in linen with espresso-colored cross-stitch embroidery. “I think this is a time for brown,” she said, noting an espresso floral bustier dress and halter jumpsuit. “Sometimes people are intimidated by brown prints, but it’s time for it. It just looks really chic.”

While the candy-colored concentric squares on a pair of shorts and the vibrant stripes of a spring trench would pop on the runway, producing a show is not a grind that Reese misses; she’s happy to be building Hope For Flowers outside of the traditional brand playbook. “I loved it, I really did,” she says of her days helming her namesake label and being on the official New York Fashion Week calendar. “But I don’t miss sacrificing my life for the runway. And I also think that it’s wonderful to pass the baton to the next generation. I’m happy to yield the stage, and to be in Detroit where the pace is different, where our impact is more felt.”

October 15, 2025 0 comments
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Jacques Wei Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection
Fashion

Jacques Wei Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection

by jummy84 October 14, 2025
written by jummy84

This Jacques Wei collection was made in 20 days. At a re-see in his show space at an extravagant salon atop a boutique hotel in HuangPu—Wei is one of two key names in Shanghai to show off-schedule and independently of Shanghai Fashion Week—the designer said there were two big reasons for the mad dash.

The first: Jacques Wei is H&M’s latest designer collaborator. He’s created a collection that will be available early next year across Asia-Pacific to mark the Chinese New Year. The 30-or-so pieces jibe with his opulent aesthetic, only at more accessible prices, and feature golden brooches in equine shapes commemorating the year of the horse. The second: Wei spent most of the time allotted to this collection working on his fabrics. He said that materials were a priority this time around, which made for a clever way of differentiating between his eponymous collection and what he’s made for the affordable fashion giant.

Wei works based on instinct and his general mood, and it must be said that he’s one fabulous vibe-architect. This season he looked at the 1980s, referencing colors, materials, and proportions. “It just feels like a joyful time,” he said, speaking of the look of the era. “I think we all need that, I know I do,” he explained.

True to form, he leaned into the bourgeois look of the decade. Wei used hammered silk brocades in deep midnight blue and gold, the former embellished with flower-like clusters of beads and sequins and the latter with bugle beads and shimmering paillettes. He cut these materials into mini skirts and collarless jackets with strong shoulders, which also appeared on jersey blouses with collars fit close to the neck but open in the back: “To make it more now,” he said, “it’s sexier and less covered up.”

Wei said he found jersey to be most forgiving—a promising discovery for a designer who works mostly with silks and georgettes, the kinds of fabrics that reveal every crease, pucker, and stitch. He draped and shirred it into swaying minis and frilly tops and one super flattering column gown, all with a flirtatious joie de vivre. This was a nice contrast to the excess of neutrals on the runways in Shanghai—and elsewhere—this season. If the economic landscape has subdued fashion into a state of ennui, that’s not the case chez Jacques Wei. He truly does make clothes for the nonconformist. And how fun was it to see his colors and prints in an ocean of ivory silks and black tailoring.

October 14, 2025 0 comments
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Balmain Spring 2026 Menswear Collection
Fashion

Balmain Spring 2026 Menswear Collection

by jummy84 October 14, 2025
written by jummy84

“Newness is not what you see, it is how you are.” Olivier Rousteing delivered this observation during a preview for his spring 2026 womenswear collection in Paris earlier this month. This collection was its close menswear companion, and similarly signified a new expansion of the designer’s Balmain practice.

Rousteing said that when he began to manifest it, “I was in my free place. Where I do my meditation every day on the beach. It might be in Italy, the south of France, the Middle East… somewhere where I can see the landscape, see the sky. This collection is an exercise in self-reflection, challenging myself, and even after 15 years at Balmain continuing to be a force for newness and disruption.”

Here that translated into a masculine counterpoint to the sumptuously boho version of Balmain we saw at the Hotel Intercontinental, shot show-style without an audience. Many of the pieces were shared freely between the two; there were the same gorgeous action-pocketed weathered-leather blousons, the same papery wide-mesh knit in terracotta, an adapted version of the terry-towel skirt into a robe with matching pants, and the same endless summer, Bali surf-pro chest-piece made of wooden beads and shells.

Other points of connection were the bags garnished with shells, the fluid wraps of silk in conch pink and other paradise tones, and the occasional harem pant, albeit not quite as drop-crotched as the women’s. For more formal moments during this barefoot Balmain reverie, there were many great beaded sandals.

Deconstructed combat pants, strong shouldered field jackets, and loose rib knits added up to a mellow military perspective. There was a strong dose of wide-lapeled tailoring, often styled with tucked in jackets. Both tailoring and militaria were sometimes embellished with more organic craft; shells, beads, and stones—very chilled, softened, and relaxed descendants of the hyper-tight, hyper-luxe Faberge-fabulous collections of Rousteing’s earliest seasons at this house. “To me, real luxury today is freedom and enjoyment,” said Rousteing of a collection whose texture, tactility, and looseness exemplified the designer’s enlightenment.

October 14, 2025 0 comments
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Xander Zhou Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection
Fashion

Xander Zhou Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection

by jummy84 October 14, 2025
written by jummy84

“This is to show that the pictures you’re about to see are not AI-generated.” That’s the PSA that Xander Zhou shared on his social media, accompanied by video footage of his collection on set, ahead of the rollout of this lookbook. There’s no questioning why such messaging felt necessary. Of late, Zhou has been toying with the boundaries of our perception and the limits of our sartorial comprehension. He’s added wings and screens and arms to various tailored pieces, considering themes of innovation, evolution, and the potential implications of living in the age of rapid technological advancement.

This season, he outdid himself. The idea, he said, was to consider menswear formality as a “default interface” that has been systematically assigned to people. Meaning, the suit is the standard and the uniform, a marker of identity in the context of society—it helps signal what folks do and where they fall within the traditional social hierarchy. In Zhou’s tech jargon, the suit is the data framework of identity, and it’s started to glitch.

This meant misplaced features or others that were duplicated or multiplied. You know when you’re on a computer and the cursor glitches and starts endlessly repeating across your screen? Zhou has done that with clothes, not digitally or with AI, but quite literally—and physically—by multiplying everything from lapels and plackets to sleeves, hats, and even entire jackets and trousers. The results are perplexing and outlandish, some more wearable than others, yet fascinating altogether. The button-down in look 35, for instance, flares into multiple plackets, while the jacket in look 1 has been exquisitely tailored to a slim fit but similarly opens into an abundance of bodices. Other shirts have multiple closed collars with ties included, and knit sweaters repeat themselves in such ways they start to resemble something painted by Salvador Dalí or Rene Magritte.

In the context of this concept-driven collection Zhou is rethinking seasonality altogether. This lookbook, presented as spring 2026, is the beginning of what Zhou is labeling SSAW (Spring Summer Autumn Winter). “It’s shifting the focus from seasonality to context, setting, and character,” he said, describing “an inquiry into states of existence within an unstable world.” Zhou has also done away with his recurrent use of technology; there are no LED screens or high-tech propositions. “This is a profoundly futuristic collection created through pure craftsmanship and tailoring,” he said.

For all his inventiveness, Zhou still provides some seriously covetable and wearable pieces. His silhouette this season is flattering and elegant, and items like the leather bomber with tuxedo lapels are simply desirable. What makes him matter in Shanghai and beyond, Zhou is a rare designer who can articulate his thoughts fluently with his clothes: Can our dependence on algorithms and technology cause our identities to bifurcate and corrupt? Will society’s increasing reliance on tools like Chat GPT make our personalities mere extensions of artificial intelligence? The questions are equal parts frightening and fascinating. Zhou doesn’t have the answers, but he knows to ask the right questions.

October 14, 2025 0 comments
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AO Yes Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection
Fashion

AO Yes Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection

by jummy84 October 14, 2025
written by jummy84

Summer has stuck around in Shanghai. With temperatures in the 30s—that’s the low 90s for Fahrenheit users—and lots, lots of humidity, Fashion Week has been sticky thus far. Printed show notes are enjoying a comeback as hand fans, and everyone in the streets is dressing for the weather: simpler, skimpier. As if they could have predicted the heat, a sense of levity was present on Austin Wang and Yansong Liu’s Ao Yes runway.

Wang and Liu are known mostly for their tailoring, which is by far some of the most precise and exacting here in Shanghai. Their Mao jackets and trousers have become an if you know, you know fashion person uniform amongst the city’s fashion cognoscenti, a gospel recently delivered to new audiences by way of a Zara collaboration. This is a good thing, a great one, even. But as with any label built around a rigorous signature style, there’s always the risk of the look becoming too specific and strict.

And so this season Ao Yes turned a new leaf: more skin, lighter fabrics, and a much looser hand. It’s the right instinct from Wang and Liu, who seem to have also taken some notes from the jauntier, friskier ways in which the fashion crowd is wearing Ao Yes. Their firmer grasp on their target audience translated as a palpable confidence in the season’s key proposals. For men: short-shorts and mid-calf length trousers paired with flip-flops and a fantastic new jacket shape worn over t-shirts rather than button-downs. For women: the aforementioned, plus some coquettish qipao-like dresses, some cut close to the body in colorful jacquards and others looser, flared, and often slightly sheer.

The duo quoted the famed writer Yu Dafu, who was known for his romantic candor and sentimentalism, as the season’s inspiration. The original impetus behind Ao Yes was to refocus the discipline of these more traditional Chinese silhouettes through a more fashion lens. They’ve managed to convert true believers each season, particularly among young people. This time around they were aided by the frankness of the newfound sensuality of their clothes: less prim, far more playful. Let’s just say that the audience was definitely feeling the heat.

October 14, 2025 0 comments
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Oude Waag Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection
Fashion

Oude Waag Shanghai Spring 2026 Collection

by jummy84 October 13, 2025
written by jummy84

The spring 2026 collections began in Shanghai on October 10, but it was Jingwei Yin’s Oude Waag show on Saturday night that got things going at full throttle. In the two years and change since Vogue Runway started covering Shanghai Fashion Week, Yin has gone from a breakout name to top-billed talent on the calendar. Chalk that up to the high-octane glamour of his runway presentations, which often help rev up the pace here, and his fantastic dresses, which have started making their way stateside. Charlize Theron wore a set by Yin for an appearance at Jimmy Kimmel Live! earlier this year.

His success has had Yin thinking about leveling up; backstage after his show he spoke of challenging himself. Some particularly strong experiments included a pair of straight-line crepe skirts that were connected to hip-revealing silk mesh waistbands, and other dresses and blouses that swaddled the body around sheer body suits. Elsewhere, Yin deftly draped and shirred georgette as capelets and tops that burst outward from collars, which gave the collection a dynamic feel and helped soften the overall look.

Having so quickly established his signatures—a showroom manager here reported that buyers are now quick to recognize the Oude Waag cut and feel—Yin has been hard at work fleshing out the more commercial side of his label. Notably that meant streamlining his tailoring, keeping his slim and sharp shoulder but simplifying the design to make for a more believable and wearable silhouette.

Yin also said he tasked himself with creating something completely new, which entailed employing a more structured satin for silhouettes he described as “more architectural and like sculptures flowing in the air.” That much was true; the duo of closing dresses gave new shape—pun somewhat intended—to Yin’s hallmark techniques. Most of all, they carved out a space Yin should develop further; seeing the away-from-the-body shapes was a very welcome surprise.

October 13, 2025 0 comments
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