For the past few seasons, Alejandra Alonso Rojas has flirted with the idea of being a fully-sustainable designer—often making use of organic materials like silks or laces with low environmental impacts. But this spring, Rojas felt it was time to fully commit to this design ethos, so she released her first entirely-eco conscious collection made up of responsible fabrications. (All of her regenerative cottons, laces, or viscoses feature various GOTS or GRS certifications, which ensure they were made with recycled or non-harmful production processes.) She said it’s an M.O. that’s here to stay in her business—and better yet, Rojas also wanted to prove that such an approach does not mean sacrificing elevated or luxurious touches. “I didn’t want to do a fully-sustainable line that was basic,” she said. “In fact, it’s the most elevated collection I’ve ever made.”
As usual, Rojas looked to a sense of wanderlust for the direction of her new feminine dresses. The collection was inspired by a recent trip she took to Pompeii, Italy, where she was struck by the raw beauty of the archeological sites she visited. “I saw these paintings on the walls, and the colors—we incorporated a lot of these motifs that I took pictures of,” she said. Many of the eco materials she used—like regenerative cottons, or flax linens, “one of the most sustainable fibers because it needs so little water,”—had roughened-up textures to mimic the walls of Pompeii. One of her standout frocks, a pink number with a fitted bodice and full pleated skirt, also had frayed trimming to embody this duality. “There was something really nice about that rawness,” said Rojas.
Given her Spanish heritage, Rojas also couldn’t resist paying homage to her native country. She was influenced by the archives of the Casa de Alba in Spain—finding delight in the Alba family’s ornate art collections and fashions. This resulted in Rojas creating regal torero jackets (in a black crochet), sheer floor-length gowns made of recycled lace, and voluminous skirt silhouettes featuring under-layers made of recycled tulle. These may feel fanciful for the every day, especially for a designer known for her extreme ease and wearability, but it was a deliberate move on her part. “I wanted it to feel elevated. Sustainability is the highest luxury—it’s couture,” she said.
But it wasn’t just a technically-conscious collection. In addition to her eco materials, Rojas also wanted to incorporate more human touches to the assortment, like including lace appliqués crafted by artisans in Camariñas, Spain. “I was thinking about the planet, but also communities,” she said. Many of the materials she used, for instance, were FSC-certified, ensuring they come from responsibly-managed forests without disrupting the biodiversity and Indigenous communities surrounding them. “It’s an important certification from a nature and human point of view,” she said. These thoughtful choices may be indiscernible to the eye when taking in one of her new refined spring pieces, but Rojas will make them easily discoverable to the customer. “Every piece in the collection will have a QR code with details for transparency,” she said. “I have nothing to hide!”