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Co Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Co Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 24, 2025
written by jummy84

Co’s Stephanie Danan began our appointment talking about how the spring collection was about “fluidity” and the “unexpected way of mixing our sportswear with our eveningwear.” She continued, “As the collection came together with the styling and the location there was a sense of escape a little bit. Living in a bubble and just kind of not listening to the noise right now of what we want to wear, what we should wear, what’s going on in fashion, what’s going on in the world.” 

She certainly cut out the noise, delivering a pared-back collection of a handful essential pieces. A light maxi knit “T-shirt” dress that she and Samuel Drira, her stylist and collaborator, layered over a linen suit, and over fringed separates, scrunched up around the shoulders as a kind of looped shawl. There were light, garment-dyed poplin separates—a trench coat, a button down shirt, narrow trousers; a truly terrific leather “poet blouse” jacket; and a handful of low-key, airy gowns including one in devoré velvet worn backwards and layered with “a bunch of skirts underneath just to elevate the whole thing.” There were no pops of color, just a sea of whites, black, and washed out military greens, everything worn with everything else. The point was not necessarily high/low dressing or the theory of opposites, but more simply a matter of why not just wear everything you love. “During our fittings with Samuel and the design team we just thought, ‘let’s get radical here,’” Danan added, after a string of “no, no, no’s” of all the things they’d rejected. “We’re just like, ‘this is who we are. This is our identity. This is what we think that you will love from us.’”

September 24, 2025 0 comments
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Fear of God Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Fear of God Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 23, 2025
written by jummy84

Twelve years and nine collections in, Jerry Lorenzo has stepped up to the plate with the launch of his first full Fear Of God mainline womenswear collection. After an initial first meet-up to see it on the rail in Paris during menswear this June, Lorenzo hopped on a call last Friday to bring Vogue Runway up to speed on the release of his label’s long-gestated entry into this fashion league of its own. “I finally felt I was at the point where I could transmit ease and elegance through construction and lightness,” he said.

Lorenzo is extremely completist in his approach to design: so did this leap from menswear, where he has an inbuilt affinity with his target audience, challenge that? “In menswear, I’m chasing a feeling, and it’s a feeling I know instinctively. So not being a woman puts me at somewhat of a disadvantage, because I can’t innately understand what that feeling is. That for me was the toughest part,” he said.

Part of the collection was rooted in a territory Lorenzo knows extremely well: sportswear, and particularly baseball attire. Here you could see him apply the processes of refinement and elevation of sportswear codes that he has long developed in menswear to womenswear pieces including a cropped, sculpturally shaped hooded jacket and matching drawstring waist paint in slate-shaded nylon taffeta, and a black double faced wool/cashmere coat with baseball collar and sidesplit hem.

Elsewhere, Lorenzo adapted his sensibility to this entirely new playing field without any apparent training wheels drawn from his menswear experience. A spaghetti-strap slip dress in sheer wool-viscose voile was effectively bias cut and body-skimming. Lorenzo said of it: “I just love the simplicity, that you can wear it as it is in the lookbook, super chic and straightforward. Or you could throw it on with some Doc Martens and a flannel, you know, and be super tough. It’s meant to seem simple, but it took 12 or 13 samples to get right.”

Elsewhere the vented hem of a dark ochre boat neck dress in wool was weighted to gather and fold with movement. A floor-length dress shirt was shaped to a familiar architecture but in a fluidly skittish hammered silk chiffon. Working in this as well as other unfamiliar fabrics including sheer jerseys and lightweight cashmeres was both “fun and frustrating,” said Lorenzo. Frustration or no, womenswear represents a learning curve he is determined to surmount: “I feel like this is the biggest thing—the most exciting new frontier for the house.”

September 23, 2025 0 comments
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Paolina Russo Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Paolina Russo Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 23, 2025
written by jummy84

The starting point for Paolina Russo’s spring 2026 collection came during a research trip to Ilsan, northwest of Seoul—a city known for its vast array of vintage shops. “They have these mountains of vintage, from America, the UK, everywhere,” the brand’s namesake co-founder Paolina Russo said in a preview. The brief? To find archival designs that read “Laura Ashley meets sport”—which, unsurprisingly, was a near-impossible task. “There weren’t any clothes exactly like that, but we were kind of clashing together silhouettes,” Russo explained.

Laura Ashley’s ditzy florals might seem a million miles away from Paolina Russo’s trademark jersey tops and optical illusion prints, but Russo and co-founder Lucile Guilmard wanted to explore a more feminine side this season. This could be seen via the lightweight chiffon handkerchief dresses, adorned with a combination of Liberty-esque florals and graphic sports jersey numbers—collaged together using blown-up photographs of archival designs from previous seasons. The pastoral theme (also reflected by this season’s deliberately low-fi lookbook, featuring photographs taken by Russo during a hike in Wales) continued with the pair’s “girly” take on a tracksuit, in the form of an elasticated maxi skirt and matching zip-up jacket, featuring distorted picnic blanket checks.

The brand’s lighter, more wearable knits were also new for this season—painstakingly developed in collaboration with a vertical factory in Hong Kong that manufactures everything from “fiber to final garment.” While in the past, Paolina Russo has arguably found more success with its fall collections—thanks to its popular warrior princess knits and laser-printed denim—spring 2026 marked a pivotal moment in the brand’s development. “We feel like it melds all the things that we’ve been building for the past few seasons, but it’s now more of an expanded wardrobe,” Russo said. “It’s one of our favorite collections.”

September 23, 2025 0 comments
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Ashish Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Ashish Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 23, 2025
written by jummy84

This was one of those rare, impossible-to-stop-watching shows during which your phone warns you that you’re running dangerously low on storage. Ashish Gupta might not be the most fashionable of fashion designers on the London schedule—he’s been around way too long to ever be the next big thing—but he absolutely ranks among the very best.

This show illustrated precisely why: here is a designer who possesses not only an instinctual litmus for cultural atmosphere, but also the capacity to meaningfully react to it through the creation of artful, soulful fashion. As he outlined in a show note poem entitled Autobiography of a Dress, this collection was meant as “an antidote to anti-boats,” a gesture of resistance above and beyond this particular moment of dismal social division, both in the UK and beyond.

The show was cooked up with performance artist Linder Sterling. Together they put out a casting call for dancers, and whittled down the 300 respondents to around 40. As Gupta rightly observed backstage: “I was terrified because dance shows can be a little bit cringe.” To give the performance a bit of structure, he and Sterling determined that it should be shaped around the notion of this being the last party in the world: “And that’s kind of where the concept came from.”

As well as being a wonderful advertisement for the elasticity of his garments in the face of extreme movement, the show was emotionally moving. “You have to remember what you are fighting for,” said Gupta. “It’s like something that Arundhati Roy wrote: ‘you have to seek joy in the saddest of places.’” The models, freed to dance like it was their last time on the floor, threw shapes as diversely individual as they were: once they had completed the circuit around the spotlit runway they gathered in its center to keep on moving.

The collection was mostly drawn in sequins, the shiny building block of Gupta’s signature practice. Across a wide range of party-ready garments for men and women these sequins came choreographed in check, tie-dye, Shibori and other patterns which, as the designer observed, have all evolved across time, borders and cultures. The collection also included a few pieces, including the funkily colored faux furs, plucked from the designer’s upcoming collaboration with UK retailer Debenham’s: hats off to them for having the sense to hitch their wagon to Ashish.

Although this collection and show was called Fresh Hell after the atmosphere Gupta and Sterling were kicking against, watching it was heavenly. I personally have an extremely low tolerance for fashion shows that incorporate dance—they often really do make you cringe— but this was an awesome exception. Backstage, wearing one of the Fashion Not Fascism T-shirts created with artist Rachel Louise Hodgson, Gupta said: “The point of it was to say we’re not going to be sad about this shit: we’re going to fight.”

September 23, 2025 0 comments
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Karoline Vitto Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Karoline Vitto Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 23, 2025
written by jummy84

In recent seasons, several designers among London’s younger cohort have held alternative collection showcases in place of a traditional runway. Karoline Vitto revealed her fall collection via lookbook, and for spring she eschewed an on-schedule moment in favor of a show-photo-shoot hybrid, staged well before Fashion Week, attended by members of her community. Pulling the curtain on her process, customers and fans––some of whom even travelled from other cities––responded to Karoline’s call-out on Instagram, and experienced a day-long catwalk and video shoot, dressed in looks from previous seasons. “I was once reminded that when you’re a small brand, you have a luxury to do certain things,” she said at a preview. “It’s good to take the opportunity now. People showed up in my clothes and they were excited to be there. It was a really great way to connect and engage with them.”

Community has always been important for Vitto, who has fervently championed inclusive sizing: she has been an especially refreshing presence against the backdrop of a backwards-leaning size-diversity landscape. Spring 2026 was sampled on fitting models of size UK8 and size UK16, and graded appropriately to ensure a refined fit across the board. Inspired by her trips to Sao Paulo, “watching how people dress,” the collection harnessed the warm weather and focused on “lightweight layers.” “Winter doesn’t exist in Brazil,” she quipped, likening the style differences of Sao Paulo and Rio to New York and LA––she leant into the former Brazilian city this season, having done the latter last season.

Three new shirts in cotton and viscose, two cropped and one long with an “airy slit” at the back, exemplified the “easier silhouettes” Vitto explored throughout. This ease was also translated to the trousers, one of which was based on an archive “belly-button” iteration from 2021, reworked in deadstock herringbone with a baggier, curved fit––another, a pair “the girls loved” was updated with less bra-strap details than before. “It was important to include pieces that feel really good and are flattering on different bodies,” she said. “There’s more everyday wear,” she continued, honing in on the “entry-level” boxer shorts and tank tops. For the label’s stalwarts there were a selection of dresses with new twisted and draped proportions––gathered fabric on the hips, an asymmetric knotted strap––in rich tamarind red and chartreuse, pink, and black. As for the metal rings she has made her trademark? They were complementary rather than integral to her vision, and took form as handles for her debut bag offering.

Around 80 percent of Vitto’s production is in her native Brazil, but her design mind is split more evenly between there and London. As evidenced by the well-attended and well-received alt format she adopted for spring, the demand is also spread; from the UK to Brazil and beyond.

September 23, 2025 0 comments
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Burberry Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear
Fashion

Burberry Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear

by jummy84 September 22, 2025
written by jummy84

Burberry Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear

September 22, 2025 0 comments
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Edeline Lee Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Edeline Lee Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 22, 2025
written by jummy84

It began with the hits: a mock-neck dress in ankle-length charmeuse; a cap-sleeve shift in bubble flou jacquard; a georgette garden-party frock in watercolor polka dots. Then the smoke machine kicked in, and everything we’ve come to expect from Edeline Lee flipped on a dime. Prim sashes unraveled into rouleau tassels. Tassels multiplied into tendrilous gowns. Hemlines split from their bodies and floated on hoops. Hoops morphed into helter-skelter showpieces. And was that—huh?—Charli XCX rattling the walls of the St. George Ballroom? “I might make clothes for ladies,” Lee said. “But I’m still that fashion kid who refuses to be put in a box.”

For Lee, that meant calling time on the elaborate happenings—theater shows, sound baths, lectures, flash mob breakfasts—that have long been her chosen format, and instead do the most conventional thing of all: putting spring 2026 on a catwalk. “The pressure is on,” she said, during a preview of the collection in her Limehouse studio. “Because now it’s the clothes that have to tell the narrative.” This one took its cue from the fleeting magic of a traveling circus—here one night, gone the next—triggered in part by the candy-striped interiors of Lee’s Harrods concession. Those appeared in pale pink and mint circle skirts with varying hoop inserts—an architectural riff on the Big Top—while ruffled collars and dickies nodded to pantomime clowns like Pierrot, and sequined columns to the glitter left in their wake. “We already have a strong line of commercial pieces,” the designer said. “But to prove we can do a show in a runway format, the clothes had to bring the fun.”

So there was a clear sense of Lee wanting to challenge assumption, which leads us to her first foray into knitwear: a handful of her signature silhouettes—the best-selling Pedernal among them—reimagined in flechage panels of sustainable FSC viscose. “People automatically assume I want to do fuzzy sweaters,” she said. “But these are the chic, multi-functional pieces my woman needs.” It was an addition so instinctive you wondered why she hasn’t done it before. But producing knitwear in Britain—a non-negotiable for Lee, who continues to manufacture everything in her atelier—is anything but straightforward. “It’s been a real labor of love and yet so much more pleasurable than DHL-ing it all off to China,” she said. “Made in England means something, but we don’t give it the same weight as other nations. We need to support British fashion.” There’s a message worth firing from a cannon.

September 22, 2025 0 comments
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Talia Byre Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Talia Byre Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 22, 2025
written by jummy84

Talia Byre’s name is more prevalent than ever on the fashion circuit—especially in London. The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund nominee has in the past drawn intimate crowds to salon-style moments and conversations, supported by biscuits and wine, but spring marked her first show. “I’m excited!” Talia Lipkin-Connor briefly surmised of her feelings at a preview, surrounded by the reworked Ugg boots and flats that accompanied her spring looks.

Though edible confections were absent on show day, Lipkin-Connor instead delivered seasonal delights in the form of studded leather charms that swung from a weekender-proportioned take on her signature Bolter bag, leather sunglass holders suspended from models’ necks, and towel holders thrown over their shoulders. Eyewear was integrated into the fabric of the clothes. A bead-and-crystal waistcoat, worn atop a gray sweater, got the iPhones poised. These could be considered “finishing touches,” but they’re customary tidbits that are intrinsic to the woman (or women) she has created. Because if you looked closely at everything, there was an effortless attention to detail: a skewed knotted flourish in place of a traditional collar on shirting; a dropped shoulder on a cardigan, informed by knitwear her great-uncle sold at her namesake boutique, Lucinda Byre. “It should be very real,” she said. Everything was meticulously thought through.

Lipkin-Connor said the silhouettes were more exaggerated this season—a louche, thicker take on her beloved rugby top and a toweled iteration in the same cocooned silhouette, both with super-low V necklines, affirmed her sentiment. Flashes of her now-trademark stripes prevailed, alongside a first foray into florals—inspired by a wood-frame William Morris bed and the themes explored in Deborah Levy’s Real Estate, which she read in Hydra over the summer—that were hand-screen-printed onto several fabrics, including a cream devoré with a mesh overlay realized as balloon trousers and a matching zip-up jacket. “It’s the idea of wrapping, home, and comfort,” said Lipkin-Connor, pulling the tactile pieces from their hangers as the studio team made final tweaks to the new “apron” dress series. “It’s quite 1980s country mum,” she added, flashing a knowing smile.

Turning focus to a mannequin, Lipkin-Connor showed her eveningwear proposition. Maxidresses and shoulder-pad-bolstered tops were made in the same rigid grosgrain fabric as her bridal, “for consistency,” fastened with colorful grosgrain straps at the back that she loosely likened to the strong injections of color in some Renaissance paintings. These were a departure from her tried-and-true brand staples—jersey, nylon, and lightweight cotton are her usual calling cards—and it will be exciting to see how they develop.

A handful of carryovers, which grounded the collection, were present and correct, but new “stories” were the focus. To complement her legacy “warm-up” trousers, there were novel white poplin trousers, also available as rolled-up shorts. “I love each season to be a documentation of what’s happened in the studio,” she said—and you could tell. “You’ve seen it, it’s in the back of your mind, but you’ve never seen it done before…and then it’s a new and fresh take on it, but there’s a sense of knowing,” she petered off. “It should feel like an elevated continuation of the brand.” And it really was.

September 22, 2025 0 comments
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Aaron Esh Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Aaron Esh Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 22, 2025
written by jummy84

Ned Sims turned up to walk Aaron Esh’s spring 2026 show today in a ripped white T-shirt. Esh threw an impeccably tailored, silk-piped suit jacket over the tee and sent Sims down the runway. “I think that gave him the energy to walk how he did,” said Esh. The spasming soundtrack—ricocheting from Merseyside rapper EsDeeKid to California electroclash, and London underground duo bassvictim—probably helped too, setting the scene in the several years-shuttered Hackney nightclub Oval Space. Lights flickered, fashion students and London kids spectated from the periphery, models looked like they’d emerged from the smoking area fug propelled by some salacious gossip.

The setting and music, the people present, and the clothes seen all mattered to Esh. “I want to show the customer, the world, the fashion world, journalists… whoever it is, that we can operate on a particular level,” Esh related backstage amid a press scrum, phantom arms penetrating sporadically to hug him congratulations. “If this was my first show for a house, I wouldn’t do anything different.” Esh skipped last season, giving himself and his team the space to get deeper, more meticulous, and worked once again with stylist Katy England. “Even six months ago, we couldn’t have done this,” he said.

Tailoring was inspired by old London craftsmanship and 1930s couture, with the collection largely focused on menswear signatures. “But it’s not a gender thing,” said Esh. “It’s a wardrobe thing.” Women and men walked the runway in suede field jackets (one in a brilliant strike of marmalade) and a spectrum of close to very close-fitting leather pants. Military shirts featured covered buttons, and lacquered leather and satin accent diaphanous shirts and seamless tuxedo trousers. Four bespoke suits were made in collaboration with Savile Row tailor Charlie Allen, cut in Highbury, North London. Sensuality abounded as much in the sinewy knit sweaters and satin Harrington jackets as the bias-cut, twisted neck jersey dresses. This season also featured Esh’s first shoes, made with Zara—a suite of boots for 5AM stomps home from the after-party.

Couture techniques were articulated through Esh’s London lens. Black feathers were made not of ostrich from chiffon, splaying from a gray coat’s lapels, and a tweed herringbone jacket was studded and spangled with large black sequins that were all hand cut. Jacket patterns were hand basted, embroidered per panel, and sewn together: “exactly how they’d do it at Chanel,” said Esh. “These pieces, to me, are the first real couture things we’ve made by hand, never touching a machine.”

These were clothes in reverence and revolt, exacting but not effete. They captured the moxie of Esh and his friends. “There’s something to say about fashion in London right now,” said the designer. “I think the reality of [this collection] cuts through the bullshit, repetitive, Instagram, Paris Fashion Week, see it and forget about it next week thing,” he added. “This is a real wardrobe worn by real people, inspired by the kids who are out there with music that’s loud.”

September 22, 2025 0 comments
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Tolu Coker Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Fashion

Tolu Coker Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection

by jummy84 September 21, 2025
written by jummy84

In London Tolu Coker has acquired something of a reputation for the textured, emotionally profound environments that she builds around her collection presentations. In previous seasons, we’ve been transported to family members’ living rooms and even into a mock-up of her own studio—experiences that compete with (and, to this reviewer, even outdo) many shows put on by the schedule’s bigger names.

For spring, though, Tolu decided to buck expectations—or, perhaps, flip the script—and present by way of a film screening. Her reasoning was that this season marked something of a tipping point in the trajectory of her namesake brand. “This is about really trying to hone in on our messaging and the values that we want to celebrate,” she said in a preview ahead of the show, with that desire especially understandable since Coker recently found herself in Paris as a finalist in this year’s LVMH Prize.

It’s a moment that would prompt something of stock take for anyone. “The collection is called Unfinished Business, and it is looking at this idea of inheritance,” she said. “I always say clothes should outlive their original wearer, thinking about the idea of clothing as heirloom, or as objects that carry legacies.” It’s been a theme at the heart of Coker’s work for a while now, a testament to the organic, iterative nature of her practice. “I think of all my collections as an anthology; they don’t exist in isolation,” she said. “I’d been looking at matriarchs and my spring 2025 lineup. And so it’s sort of continued on this spring with the idea of womanhood. And we have a very special muse sort-of fronting it…”

That’s no understatement: the star of both the film and the collection’s campaign is none other than Naomi Campbell. The British supermodel is a longstanding supporter of Coker’s business, but her will to have her involved came down to the particular phase of life that Campbell currently finds herself in. “It’s really looking at the relationship between how the world views her and the reality of this sort of season in her life and what she’s stepping into in becoming a mother,” said Coker.

Comprising shots of Campbell in a warmly lit domestic space, decorated with images of family photos, the model contemplates the discrepancy between the hyper-glam, superhuman global perception of her and the reality of who she is as, you know, a real person, with all the nuances that entails.

With respect to how this sense of contemplation distills into clothing, the answer is as complex and seemingly contrasting. The structured, ’60s-inspired tailoring that Coker has made a name with returned in earthen hues, sky blue and teal leather, but there was also a pronounced softness to the collection that felt like a promising new direction for the designer. Puffball sleeved dresses in sandy twill had an almost balloon-like buoyancy to them, while a butter yellow flounced skirt in velvety shirting poplin seemed to have a featherlight flow, but in fact had a 14 meter circumference and took days to make. Alongside a pastel satin version, its pattern was designed to allow for the piece to be made using fabric offcuts that might typically be discarded—extending the cloth’s legacy, so to speak. “Working with lighter materials, I was really thinking about this idea of softness and vulnerability, specifically for black British women,” said Coker. “I think it’s so important to see us as human and to see the softness and vulnerability as a form of strength.”

There was something to this season’s offering from Coker that felt franker, more earnest, and perhaps more attuned and grounded than what we’ve seen from her before. “I’ve always said that I want to be real and take people into a space and journey of where I’m at right now,” she said. “In the film, we’re looking at the humanity of women. It’s a case of celebrating that, and making commentary on the reality of that through the woman’s wardrobe.”

September 21, 2025 0 comments
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