For years now, designer Naeem Khan has been operating his atelier out of New York’s Garment District—a historic neighborhood that is slowly shrinking year by year. For his new spring lookbook, Khan wanted to pay homage to the spirit of the area, so he photographed his new assortment of formal evening attire in his own studio, among the mannequins and rolls of fabric. “The area is becoming more residential, and the whole charm of the garment industry is being taken away,” said Khan. “I wanted to celebrate it.”
While the season served as a tribute to his own Manhattan headquarters, the colors and finishes of his glamorous gowns were much more European-minded. Khan drew inspiration from the vibrant hues that he found during trips to Tuscany and Sicily this year. “The churches in Italy have all these beautiful colors,” he said. “I wanted it to be upbeat—with tons of colors and flowers.” The fusion of sugary pastels was, naturally, perfect for spring.
It’s no surprise that Khan centered on evening gowns, given that’s what his customers constantly ask for (and buy). There were frocks like a yellow strapless gown with a full skirt, embroidered with florals and three-dimensional petals. “They were all hand-stitched, one petal at a time,” said Khan. Long-sleeved column gowns, striped with rows of multicolor beads (very Studio 54), accentuated the form in flattering ways. “I drew them all on the body, and then accentuated the angles to give it more of an hourglass shape,” said the designer. Another beaded sleeveless dress featured a skirt that referenced the shape of Roman arches, another Italian touch.
Since Khan’s exquisite embroideries and embellishments often draw the focus, the designer made attempts to strip things back and offer something different, too. His breezy caftans, for one, offered a sense of simplicity—though he couldn’t resist trimming the neckline and sleeves with crystals. “I wanted a La Dolce Vita moment,” he said. For those looking for discrete, stealth-wealth staples, look elsewhere.