The Zuhair Murad woman is traveling this spring, as she often does, but this time around the journey is inward. “She’s not seeking a place but a light within,” Murad explained in his collection notes.
Sartorially speaking, the journey in search of self calls for ease of movement and, above all, serenity. Monochrome dressing drew essentially on autumnal and desert hues for day or night, for example in a safari-style jacket, jumpsuit or coat in faille treated to look like linen, or halter dresses in ocher or sunset pink. This season, Murad focused more on comparatively restrained daywear, then incorporated bohemian flourishes with a jumpsuit in cotton lace among other lightweight knits. Florals, in stylized laser cut-outs, prints, or 3D embroidery on silk tulle, were counterbalanced by crisp tailoring in cady, for example on a cropped black spencer jacket shown here with a matching miniskirt as well as a couple of looks inspired by the classic trench.
Embellished eveningwear also seemed to be led by movement, with jet black or silver sequins forming organic incrustations on transparent gowns and, strikingly, on black jackets and a cape number. Those seemed to nod to the designer’s fantasy jewelry renaissance, due around the time that he plans to move his shop, showroom and atelier up the Rue François 1er, closer to the Avenue Montaigne.