Jil

When a new designer takes over at the helm of a major fashion house (as is the case nearly everywhere this fashion month, with spring 2026 marking over 15 anticipated debuts), the expectation is that they’ll overhaul the work of their predecessor and put forth a collection that’s completely and totally their own. But the first few glimpses of Simone Bellotti’s Jil Sander debut are already revealing a different story. The Italian designer, formerly of Bally, took a much more democratic approach, marrying his own sensibilities with those of the label to create one harmonious blend of the two.

In its first few social media posts unveiling the collection, the brand described it as “a tightly edited expression of contrasts,” and it was, indeed, bursting with a sense of joy and optimism that’s so often lacking in today’s minimalist designs. While the looks were largely restrained, consisting of high-neck tailored jackets, knee-length skirts, and solid-colored knits, the color combinations were vivid and electric, offering a fresh vision that pierced through the loud maximalism we’ve seen elsewhere so far this season.