“This collection was born from the desire to let go of a more constructed approach and embrace an essential simplicity,” said Ermanno Scervino, who still feels a thrill when months of work finally take shape. “I worked on a concept of fashion that is rather different from the usual, because I wanted to create space for a desire for change.” Indeed, the spring collection was a less soirée-driven, less ostentatious expression of his aesthetic. There were no caftans or sweeping evening gowns, but rather pieces that channeled a more pragmatic elegance designed for everyday wear.
“What gives meaning to luxury is the highest level of craftsmanship and our manual savoir faire,” Scervino emphasized. And it is impossible to be disappointed when observing such techniques under a magnifying glass. With meticulous technological research applied to fabrics, it was the ancient “iris petal” layering technique that elevated a clean yet never bare stylistic narrative. Chiffon, layered and printed with denim or a Prince of Wales pattern, retained its lightness and transparency while acquiring an unexpected structure and feel. It became the fabric from which to craft tailored suits and trench coats. “It looks simple, but it isn’t. And it requires the same care as a lace gown,” explained the designer. Contrasts, however, were only subtly suggested: Lingerie slips were paired with crochet knitwear, lace with napa leather, crystals with sporty bombers.
It was cutwork and embroidery that made the ordinary extraordinary—on leather jackets but also on satin and technical fabrics. Among the novelties were billowing cloud skirts and lace flip-flops. Recurring motifs included polka dots, pareo-inspired prints, and checks, while a discreet palette of chalk, cappuccino, powder blue, and black was unexpectedly punctuated by mandarin orange.