Inside Pierpaolo Piccioli’s S/S 26 Balenciaga Collection

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga was one of the most anticipated shows of fashion month. His spring 2026 designs celebrate the fashion house, touching on the varying Balenciaga house codes throughout its history. “The meaning of Balenciaga is a methodology. The process of creation as ideology, as identity, an expression of humanity and human invention,” read the show notes. “The début collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli as Creative Director of Balenciaga commemorates this essential component of the Maison, and of the work of Cristobal Balenciaga, bringing it into the present. Not homage, but recalibration.”

From Cristóbal Balenciaga’s pioneering silhouettes and innovation to Nicolas Ghesquiere’s futurism to Demna’s streetwear, Pierpaolo Piccioli used the maison’s archives as a jumping-off point for his first collection, all while making it distinctly his own vision. The artful blend of 1950s glamour with the modern references that permeated the looks on the runway were unmistakably Balenciaga. Ahead, more on the spring/summer 2026 Balenciaga collection, which was one of the standout shows of the season.

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s First Collection For Balenciaga

Hailing from his most recent appointment at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli showed his first Balenciaga collection at Paris Fashion Week. Though he paid tribute to his predecessors—including Demna, who was the latest creative director at the house before he decamped to Gucci—Piccioli is bringing a renewed sense of elegance back to the fashion house. As Piccioli took a bow at the end of the show, attendees stood from their seats for a standing ovation, including Anna Wintour, who was among those in applause.

A Recalibration of the Archives

Piccioli looked to different eras of Balenciaga, commemorating moments from the brand’s rich history. Cristóbal Balenciaga’s groundbreaking silhouettes like the sack dress were celebrated in sweeping gown iterations. Nicolas Ghesquiere’s futurism was present in the form of architectural tailoring and technical fabrics. Demna’s streetwear aesthetic appeared in oversize T-shirts paired with hot pink leather gloves.

A Return to Elegance

Under the previous creative director, Demna, Balenciaga became heavily inspired by subversive streetwear. Though Piccioli made nods to this era of Balenciaga, he pivoted in a return to the elegant house codes. We expect to see many of these looks usher in a new era for the fashion house on the red carpet.

Innovation and Futurism

Piccioli explored elements of futurism—through sunglass shapes and directional silhouettes —and more areas of innovation on the runway. Cristóbal Balenciaga was a pioneer in his use of innovative fabrics like gazar and organza. Honoring this tradition, Piccioli introduced a new neo gazar fabric on the runway. “A new development for the Maison, introduced in the Summer 2026 collection by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, Balenciaga’s neo gazar fabric is inspired by the original gazar textile devised by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1958,” a press release shared on the innovation. “It shares its inherent sculptural properties, affording the achievement of exceptional amplitude through cut alone.”

Meghan Markle’s First PFW Appearance

Meghan Markle made her Paris Fashion Week debut for the spring/summer 2026 shows on the front row at Balenciaga, wearing a full Balenciaga look designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli. In the evening following the show, the Duchess of Sussex changed into a second custom Balenciaga look.